WRITING DESIGN CRITICISM
Writing Design Criticism is a blog where we write design criticism. It's housed and curated by Alexander Bohn, under the auspices of David Sokol and the WDC staff. We welcome submissions from design writers and other opinionated individuals.
James Chae on Art, Design, and Fashion
Posted on 01/25/2007 by James ChaePermalinkComment (0 so far)

Please welcome James Chae, RISD GD ‘06, to Writing Design Criticism. James works at Tank, in Boston, MA. He has something to say.

image via style.com. This dress was also on display this summer at the Centraal Museum in Utrecht, NL.

The exhibition world is a flood with “style” and “fashion.” In the past year there have been major fashion-based exhibits held at very unlikely institutions. This new found interest in design and style marks a shift in focus within the museum world. Is there a new young breed with a more “inclusive” vision of art?

An interior shot of the Fashion DNA show.

I first encountered this inclusion of fashion in Amsterdam this past summer. The Fashion DNA show ran for a couple months in the center of the cannibus cavern. It was housed in a cathedral, the Nieuwe Kerk. This is an important detail because it venerates fashion in a most appropriate setting. It also fit extremely well with current trends in design. You might deny it right now, but 2006 was all about extravagance and indulgence. Designers played that shit out till it’s well deserved end. The show was designed by Italian architect/designer Italo Rota. Overall, it was an impressive show that was very well executed. The curation exhibited work in a historical manner organizing content in terms of desires. It thoroughly investigated the need and desire for dress. But the most striking thing about the exhibition was its backing. This was a Rijks Museum show, a national organization, that was very much about the now and vogue. But hey….it was Europe and it was in a city where design and fashion thrive.

Little did I know that in the same summer the Met had it’s own little catwalk. Anglomania was a thorough retrospective of British fashion in last quarter century. It was an exhibition that was treated with respectul, historical grace. I didn’t go so I can only trust her opinion. Again, a major institution that upholds a reputation for historical perspective holds a show leading into the now about a subject that is constantly moving in a progressive motion.

Image courtesy of style.com. This piece was also on display at MFA’s Fashion Show.

This leads me to Fashion Show, MFA’s straightforward attempt at getting on the fashion bandwagon. I give them credit for not guising it in a more self-righteous manner. The show was very upfront about its intentions. In this respect, it is the most honest of all three exhibitions. But for that reason it is the most shallow, and poorly executed. Some have praised it for its simplicity, but it all comes off as obvious and lazy. They took the latest lines from the most commonly known designers and just put them in a black room. The displays were cheap, the exhibition typography lazy, and it was painfully plain. This, I suppose, is to be expected of an institution like the MFA. Overall, it made one feel ripped off because you walked away having gained absolutely nothing. To add insult to injury, they so markedly placed a new store at the end of the exhibition with nice designer goods and taste-making books. For all its honesty, the MFA’s show was as cheap as a dishonest second-hand car salesman.

But is this sudden interest in fashion a good thing? I may argue that yes it is because it is trying to elevate design. Maybe this will mean there will be a new design consciousness being bread in America. More importantly I think it marks a change in how museums want to present themselves. As a generation that is becoming well versed in all levels of culture museums are trying to come back down to our level. The new ICA in Boston is trying to transform itself with its new building into a community-oriented institution. Nick Currie comments on how the Tate is trying to make a similar shift. If this is all true, then fashion is a topic that everyone can easily embrace and understand. But in doing so curators need to bring something new to the table. Exhibitions don’t always have to be didactic, but if it isn’t please lower the goddamn price and be true to your mission of presenting a more accessible museum show!



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Tags for this article: architecture, art, design, fashion, graphicdesign, museum, trends
Barnbrook Saved Adbusters
Posted on 02/15/2007 by James ChaePermalinkComment (0 so far)

This is a review of last fall’s art/design issue of AdBusters. Despite it’s tardiness….Jonathan Barnbrook is still the man.


Somewhere along the way AdBusters fell off. It got confused, had a major identity crisis and now struggles to redefine itself into a form of greater relevance.

The hands of Jonathan Barnbrook, and his talented staff, have brought a small amount of saving grace to the struggling publication. Barnbrook has worked with AdBusters in the past, but never has he taken such commanding presence, (he guest art directed the whole issue.) In my most humble opinion, Barnbrook conveys AdBusters what it truly is, was, and is meant to be. That being, a sociopolitical work that comes directly out of the worlds of fashion, design, and art (visual culture.)

Barnbrook has recently returned to a state of vogue. He’s received a steady growth of press as he prepares his big show at the Design Museum, stitches together a giant monograph, and packages a mega-launch of a 32-face type family Bourgeois. With this return has come a new sensibility that reflects maturity. His typographic excellence has been matched with equally compelling execution of works displayed in his anti-North Korean show Tomorrow’s Truth. While maintaining his non-familiar early-ninties “digital” composition, Barnbrook has adopted a much brighter and punchier palette. This is especially evident in his work with the latest AdBusters, (I suspect this could be the handy work of young-gun Pedro Inoue who has been credited as co-conspiritor.)


The design of this issue revitalizes the increasingly poor design and even poorer production of this magazine. It’s glossy pages on cheap paper stock are revitalized with, the oh so scary word, style. But it is not senseless style. And it is the proper balance of style and communication that makes Barnbrook’s handling of AdBusters so honest. The over-stylization brings the publication back down to a level that doesn’t purport to be informative, manipulative, or even subversive. Rather, it is just bold. It’s there.


The greatest design moment is how the two designers handled Natalya Ilyn’s article on Modernism. The opening spread has gray type on a muted gray background. As the article describes Mies Van Der Rohe’s and Modernism’s momentum, the background flairs with magenta, and pretty much explodes at the end.

It’s a shame that we have to admit that AdBusters probably has run out of steam. But maybe Barnbrook’s studio can help it reposition itself.



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Tags for this article: bullshit, design, designer, graphicdesign, magazine
WDC Link Log

TIGHTS ARE NOT PANTS: an important admonishment against a potentially grave misconception.


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I so want to be there some time when graphic designer Jennifer Daniel has to explain her URL with words to a stranger.


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Coming last spring: Design Criticism, the magazine. A nice idea, n’est ce pas?


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The Periodic Table of Visualization Methods is cute and comprehensive. Via Jessie Rauch


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Most everyone I know has been forwarded this article from PIDGIN by Annie Choi… here it is for posterity. I recommend tracking down the print version if you can; I found one at St. Mark’s.


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I went to the Glass House and found in pretty awesome — in the old sense of the word — and I was happy to subsequently see David Byrne write it up far more eloquently than I could.


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Super Colossal: steadfastly working against the stereotype that all architects have irritatingly unnavigateable flash sites. Fuck yeah.


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I CAN HAS CHEEZBURGER: the dialogic vernacular at its absolute finest, as I would like to pretend Jan Van Toorn might say.


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